Patagonia is the most gorgeous place in the world

Where to even start?! I'm in El Calafate, Patagonia right now having an absolutely amazing time! Never in my life have I seen so much breathtaking beauty in one place. I have literally been in constant awe for the past 4 days. My friend from Boston, Dave, flew into Buenos Aires on Monday morning for a two week visit, and we're spending 8 days of it down here in Patagonia.

We flew down to El Calafate (where I am now writing this in a café) on Wednesday for the first leg of the trip. We took it easy for the first day and did some planning, and then Thursday set off on the excursion of a lifetime to visit Perito Moreno, a massive, incredible, perfect, unbelievably beautiful advancing glacier! It's truly a wonder to see... and hear! Because of its constant movement (it is said to advance up to 2 meters per day), you don't need to be near it very long to see and hear huge icebergs calving off it and falling into the water below.

I can guarantee that no photo can do this glacier, or any scenery in Patagonia for that matter, any sort of justice. But I will certainly try. :-) This is the view from the glacier from the balconies, during the first part of our excursion.



And here is one of the may views from the back, after we took a boat around to the other side.



Then the most exciting part came-- an ice trek, complete with crampons, on top of the glacier itself!! It was so much fun, so unique! We wandered around the glacier by jamming our crampons into the ice (its like walking normally but more aggressively, like stomping), and just enjoyed reveling in the utter beauty of it all. The glacier was perfectly white, as were the clouds above, and so at times it appeared I was just walking through a perfect sea of white. I've never felt so exhilerated!



Then, as if the day hadn't been perfect already, we finished off the tour by arriving back from our trek to glasses of whiskey, poured over natural glacier ice. Perfect.



To top it all off we had ideal weather throughout the day. Apparently the day had called for rain or even snow, but instead we had perfect skies, "warm" weather (aka I was only wearing 3 layers instead of 4 or 5), and no precipitation. We really lucked out with some incredible conditions.

...and that was just Thursday!

Yesterday we got up early, rented a car, and took a road trip to El Chaltén, a tiny town, population about 600, completely surrounded by mountains as far as the eye can see. It's truly a gem. The entire road trip (about 2.5 hours via the famous Rt. 40) consisted of Dave and I staring in amazement at the scenery outside. There is literally NOTHING but incredible landscapes, the occasional cow, horse, or guanaco, and breathtaking views Lago Argentino, Lago Viedma, and the Andes mountains off in the distance.



Once in El Chaltén, we headed off to do a hike and see some of the spectacular views we'd both heard about. Once again we had a perfect day. The sun was shining brightly, and the sky was a clear blue with just a few fluffy white clouds. For a place famous for getting snow in summer and heavy precipitation, it really felt like the gods were on our side. We hiked for about 5 hours on the Sendero de Fitz Roy, a trail that took us up to incredible views of Mount Fitz Roy, several glaciers, and a lake called Lago Capri. We even drank the natural river water that was flowing by, as it is totally uncontaminated and refreshing to drink. (What a concept!)




Here's the river we drank from, with views of the mountains behind... Mount Fitz Roy is off to the left, buried in the clouds.


And this is a view of the mountains with glaciers nestled within them... can you make out the two bits of blue glaciers, one to the left and another to the right, along the part where the mountains meet the land in the photo?


I don't know quite how to capture with words the magic that exists in these places, but it is truly something special. I've never before felt so utterly blown away by the world. Seeing how much natural beauty exists makes everything else seem so small. At the base of Mount Fitz Roy, with the sun on your face and crisp air in your lungs, all problems disappear.



I don't think words like these even require a summary, but overall I can say I am having what I would consider one of the most amazing times of my life. And it's not over yet! Today, Dave and I will head to the airport and fly to Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego until Wednesday evening when we head back to Buenos Aires. We plan to hike, relax, eat some fresh seafood, and hopefully see some penguins.

And now...to the end of the earth!

Ain't like it used to be

You know, I've been thinking about how EASY us travelers have it lately. With all of the technology we have available these days, there is no reason not to communicate or to feel truly disconnected anymore. Times really have changed.

I'm going to make myself sound really old right now. Back when I started really traveling 9 years ago (my first real independent travel experience was when I lived in Granada, Spain in 2000, at the ripe age of 19), cell phones were juuuuust coming into fashion, most of my family didn't use email, and I had (gasp!) a non-digital camera which required me to actually develop film. Skype, ipods, and even this beloved blog weren't even a gleam in my eye... yet.

And that was NOTHING. Four years later, in 2004 I spent 4.5 months living in Havana, Cuba, where I couldn't make a phone call to the US (banned), check email (i had no internet at my house and there were only two computers at my office, and when they were working, they were in hot demand-- so I emailed about once a week, briefly), blog (internet connection was just too slow, and no one knew what a blog was then anyway), facebook (I didn't even have MYSPACE yet, people!), or really effectively communicate with my friends and family at home AT ALL.

Granted, living in Cuba is a specific set of circumstances in itself with more restrictions than most places, but still, when I find myself homesick and disconnected here in Buenos Aires, surrounded by modern technology, I'm humbled by the months I spent in near confinement in Havana, and I'm thankful for all the communication I have. I know my parents are too. :-)

A year after Cuba, in January of 2005 after graduating from college I bought myself the famous one way ticket to Mexico, and much to the horror of my mother, proceeded to largely disappear int the abyss that is Mexico and Central America for about 6 months. I didn't have a laptop, so it was internet cafes all the way. Skype didn't exist (or did it? In any case, I didn't know about it.) and so calling cards were how I called home. Video chat still felt like a thing of the future. Blogging still felt too complicated, uploading photos too slow. I still communicated via the postcard, while my poor parents waited weeks for their respective phone calls to alert them that I hadn't been abducted by guerrillas in Chiapas, wasn't thrown into a Salvadorian prison, had survived my stint in the Guatemalan hospital. I could hear the incredible relief on the other end of the line literally every time I reached my mom.

These days, in Buenos Aires, Argentina, our calls rarely, if ever, reach that level of relief/ desperation. Why? Because she and everyone else knows where I am and that I'm safe at all times. Haven't received an email from me lately? Check my blog. Look at my pictures and read my status updates on Facebook. Call me on Skype for a live video chat. Suddenly 8,000 miles of separation just dissolves.

I listen to music and my beloved Dan Savage podcasts on my ipod... carry photos, important files, and anything else my heart desires with me whenever I want on a tiny and convenient thumb drive... I make calls from my house phone, cell phone, Skype line... I have friends on Facebook and Myspace, Yelp, Messenger, g-chat... I can upload digital photos online with one click...and I can tell you all about it on a this blog.

So as I prepare myself for a long 4 months of travel around South America, I am comforted to know that no matter how far away I am, there is always going to be an internet café in the city nearest me, and there, you are all just one click away.

And YOU will be comforted to know that I am, you know, alive. :-)

Happy Halloween!

It's hard to get into the Halloween spirit when it's hot outside and I'm in a culture that doesn't really celebrate. Luckily, I've been inspired by the enthusiasm of my American friends, and will be going to a costume party this evening as Pippi Longstocking. Haha!!

Mismatched stripes socks + ridiculous layers of colorful skirts and dresses + classic wirey braids = Halloween miracle

Happy Halloween to all!

---------------------------------
UPDATE: Nov. 1st

The party was a lot of fun! I went with Andrea (who was Bam Bam from the Flinstones, and the rest of the Flinstones were there too), Ali (who was Lady Gaga's disco stick) and Claire (who was a Walk of Shame hahaha).

Anyway, it was about 7:00am by the time Andrea and I made it back to San Telmo... we got off the bus and were walking home, and a group of guys walked past us and made some unpleasant comments. As they walked ahead, I thought I felt one of them touch my bag. I looked and it had been unzipped and... my camera was gone! Given the amount of alcohol in my system and the number of hours we'd been out partying, I processed things fairly quickly... within about 30 seconds I realized what had happened and spotted the guy still walking up ahead of me. So on instinct, I ran after the guy! I don't think he expected that, because he didn't really react. When I caught up with him I just tapped him on the shoulder and said, "You stole my camera!" and he kind of stared at me, shook his head, and tried to cover his pocket, but the IDIOT, I could see my camera's chord hanging out!! So I just grabbed it out of his pocket and ran. Luckily it was broad daylight and there were other people on the street, so I felt reasonably safe from being re-attacked. I also took opportunity to yell some unpleasant comments of my own at him as I ran off. But the whole thing was insane.

The part I find most hilarious, of course, is that this all happened while I was in my Pippi costume. :-)

That's my first time being pick-pocketed, and I guess you could say it went rather well. It was quite empowering, anyway! Not to mention a good lesson for me to learn. I tend to walk around obliviously, and I suppose it wouldn't kill me to be more careful. It was such a close call, and I might not be so lucky next time.

Moral of the story-- Don't mess with Pippi.

Plane Tickets Purchased!

Yesterday afternoon, after much headache, I bought my plane tickets for Peru, Colombia, and Brazil! Sooo exciting! And nothing like putting a large sum of money on your credit card to make a trip seem very real. They are not-refundable, so it's official!

I spent a long time stressing about where I would be for Christmas and New Year, because let's face it, I may not be religious, but I can be quite sentimental when it comes to missing holidays with my family. I finally determined that I would head to La Paz, Bolivia to be with my roommate Andrea and her family (she's Bolivian/American) for Christmas and then jet up to Manizales, Colombia to be with my other roommate Diana in her hometown for the New Year.

Unfortunately, it didn't quite work out that way, as I couldn't find any flights from La Paz to Bogotá, without basically doubling the cost of the whole trip. So I resigned myself to flying out of Lima, and I will take things as they come. I have an Irish friend who I met here in Buenos Aires during my TOEFL course who is now living in Arequipa, Peru, and it's possible I'll go stay with him, or also possible I'll find a way to wander into Bolivia for the holiday and then back out. The exciting part is that I have no idea!!

Plane itinerary is:

December 5th-- Fly from Buenos Aires to Lima, Peru (3 weeks in Lima, Arequipa, Cuzco, Machu Micchu, and beyond)
December 29th-- Fly from Lima to Bogotá, Colombia (5 whole weeks exploring Colombia's beaches, cities, and jungle, with a likely road trip through parts with Diana and her boyfriend!)
February 4th-- Fly from Bogotá to Sao Paulo, Brazil (a week in Sao Paulo, then Rio de Janeiro for Carnival! And then who knows... I didn't buy a return ticket for a reason!)

It all feels a bit surreal, but is happening regardless, and I am acutely aware that this is probably the coolest thing I have ever done, and I need to make the most of it. Four months traveling in beautiful places. Four months with no job!! Yes, my excitement greatly outweighs my nervousness. I'll do my best to keep my blog updated with my location while I travel... I need to learn to make one of those google map "where is Erica now?" thingies....

Help me plan

Anyone who has talked to me in the past few days knows that I'm basically freeeeeaking out about all the stuff I have to do and how little time I have to do it. HALP.

Basically, somehow I have less than 2 months in Buenos Aires?!?! How can this be?? No, really, where does the time go? And basically, amidst a week visit from my sister Christie this week (yay!) and a two week visit from my friend Dave in November (yay!), I also need to apply to grad school/ financial aid/ scholarships, and figure out my entire 4 month travel plan around South America!!!! All while still working. I'm on contract and am too nice (and frankly, too in need of the recommendation) to break it.

Okay, so this is where YOU, oh loyal reader, come in. I'm talking to YOU, anyone who has ever traveled around South America. I need some tips, because I'm running into some major issues.

The biggest one is that I hate planning, obviously. I'm the kind of traveler who likes to just show up to a place, see what's going on, and take it from there. And that is exactly what I would do if it weren't for various frustrating details like...

1. Visas. I need one for Bolivia and another for Brasil, and I apparently can't get them without having proof of how I'm entering and leaving the country, which means advanced tickets. :-( Ughhhh can someone help me get around this?
2. Carnival. I want to be in Rio de Janeiro for Carnival, which is going to be AMAZING amazing amazing amazing, but before all transportation into the city around that time completely sells out, I need to book my travel... which means I need to decide which city I'll be coming from, and when...
3. Various excursions, like Machu Picchu... so expensive! And reservations months in advance, are you kidding me? Can people with experience please chime in here and tell me the cheapest and most last minute ways to trek Machu Picchu?? I don't care if it's the Inca Trail, it can be an alternate route, but I am not spending $500 on a 4 day hike. Also, the Ciudad Perdida in Colombia... anyone done it? Tips? Good/ bad?
4. Christmas and New Years... god when did I become so sentimental... I just don't want to be alone at these holidays! So I'm attempting to do very illogical things in my travel plans in order to be near people I know for the holidays... which I think might be kind of stupid. Right now it's between Colombia (where roomie Diana is from) and Bolivia (where roomie Andrea will be), if that makes any sense.

As you can see, I'm scatter-brained and a horrible planner. That being said, I am SO EXCITED about the upcoming adventures! Just could use a few tips from those who've done it to help me get into the trip planning groove.

Mochilera

My neighborhood San Telmo (my one true love in Buenos Aires) is amazing, colonial, peaceful, rustic, filled with creative young people, cheaper than most parts of town, has an off-the-beaten-path vibe... and yet is overrun with tourists. I hate admitting it, but San Telmo, let's face it, is no secret. And all day every day as I stroll my streets, go in and out of my apartment, run to the store, walk to the gym, or go to pick up an alfajor at the kiosko, I encounter groups of mochileros, backpackers, getting out of taxis, examining their maps, searching for their hostels with looks of awe, confusion, and utter GREENness on their faces.. and I think to myself, "HA! Glad I'm not you!!!"

I remember my days of backpacking in Europe in '03 or through Mexico in '05... it was a blast!... And yet there is something about having a massive backpack on your back that just screams "I'm not from here!" in a way that even my red hair and fair skin cannot compete with. It's truly been a joy to live long term in a place where I can more or less integrate, get to know the locals, and be a recognized neighborhood face, rather than just another tourist to overcharge.

As I walked home today, one of these groups was hovering around the corner from my house, clearly looking around for their hostel-- the signage is not so good in San Telmo-- and I had a moment.. THAT IS GOING TO BE ME. Oh me god, THAT IS GOING TO BE ME IN TWO MONTHS.

Panic.

No more integration. No more house keys. No more neighborly smiles from the weird hairdresser guy downstairs.

THAT IS GOING TO BE ME.

Once again, I am tossing stability, clean laundry, and my very own bed to the wind, in favor of the open road. It's a beautiful experience, one of my favorite feelings in the world, and yet stability is not an easy thing to leave behind, even if you're crazy old Me. That feeling of heading home, cooking a meal in YOUR kitchen, and getting into YOUR bed at night is something truly wonderful. And for four months, I won't feel that. Not even once. It's... well, eye-opening to think about.

In Peru, Colombia, Brasil, or Bolivia, I won't be the knowledgeable ex-pat living and working in the area, won't be someone who knows the local haunts and scenes or someone whose opinion on local matters is worth asking for-- I'll be a tourist, just like everyone else. Ugghhhh it hurts to even type it.

Going to the gym is hard enough...

I've taken to going to the gym. Months ago I was running, but then I developed those shin splints I couldn't shake, so then I sat about lazily for a few months, and in August I re-motivated and re-started the tedious process of finding a gym in San Telmo.

Oh, there are gyms in San Telmo, but they ain't pretty. It's hard enough to go to the gym when it's clean, modern, and offers plasma TV screens on every treadmill (man, I miss Healthworks). But motivating to exercises in a dirty environment? on 80s equipment? to walk on a MANUALLY-OPERATED treadmill?! Simply not happening. And yes, people, they still exits!

San Telmo gyms are where all used First World gym equipment goes to die.

The process of choosing a gym was simply ridiculous. Unlike other parts of the city that are a bit more upscale (Palermo, Recoleta, or even the downtown/Microcentro area, for example), San Telmo doesn't have any "nicer" options, so us gym rats are left with hole-in-the-wall gyms. The fancy gym chain Megatlon, for example, doesn't have a location anywhere near me. Not that I could afford it anyway.

I spent weeks going in and out of the gyms in the area trying to decide who would get my $90 pesos/ month. Most are small, dusty, and have limited equipment. One, for example, only had one treadmill and one stationary bike and weights. Another one only had treadmills that were non-electric... I don't even know how those things operate, but I'm SURE they haven't been manufactured for at least 20 years! And one of the nicest options, a big place with a pool and yoga classes, required me to get a physical examination with one of their doctors before joining, and not only did I have to pay extra for that, but the waiting list to see the doctor was over a month long. Bureaucracy!!!

I finally settled on City Gym, a short 4 block walk from my house. I like it enough and the people are friendly, but I've really had to lower the bar. The machines are often broken, and no one wipes them down (how very fancy of me to expect my machines NOT to be slimed over with someone else's sweat). There are spinning classes, and I LOVE spinning classes, but the bikes are atrocious. The bikes I'm used to in the US have knobs that you can give a couple full turns to in order to achieve a variety of different levels, but on these bikes you just barely touch the knob and the level changes from easy to impossible. It's a bit of a mess. On the upside, one of my spinning teachers plays cumbia and reggaeton music and gets up and dances in the middle of the class, which is always hilarious.

I'm sure I've developed a reputation as that red-faced red-headed foreign girl, but I think I've gone enough now that people are used to seeing me around and don't gawk quite as much. Now I do the gawking. I can't believe the boys who work out in Chucks, or worse, alpargatas. Nuts.