WE'RE ALL GONNA DIE!!!

Oh, trendy pandemics! Hark, mighty power of thy fatal disease scare!

Remember that time that Mexico City shut down because of the Swine Flu (aka Gripe A)? You do? Or maybe you forgot because the swine flu scare is soooo 5 minutes ago?? Yeah, well, just as tucking your jeans into your boots juuuust came into style down here, apparently Argentina was the last to get the Pig Flu memo as well...

Right now, just as I was starting to settle into a nice dengue-less, paranoia-less, southern hemisphere winter existence, the city of Buenos Aires has to go all Mexico City on me. When I showed up at work today, I was informed that any of my classes involving children (which shockingly/ unfortunately is several) would be canceled for the whole month of July. Wooow!! What an awesome time to be a kid in Buenos Aires!!! And what a lame time to be the silly teacher losing money on lost hours to teach them.

The papers are saying that other stuff will still be open, but I'm worrying it won't be long now before an emergency crisis is declared, and every bar, nightclub, sports venue and bath house in the city locks its doors. Now THAT, my friends, is worth panicking about!

(With the 4th of July being this Saturday, and with that eerily coinciding with the day my alcohol cleanse ends, it's just extremely important that nothing too extreme happen.)

I, for one, am not afraid of a flu that only kills elderly, babies, people with compromised immune systems (mine's doing great, btw), and can't even out-kill the common flu. I mean, COME ON, we are going to close down for what now?

ROAR.

I've never been into systematic scare tactics. Mad Cow, Bird Flu... they all flew right over my head. It's time this one went with the way of the DoDo as well.

Vote for ME

Hi Friends, I'm doing great! Yep, things continue to improve. I'm on day #23 of the drinking cleanse, and day #19 of the food cleanse. I feel awesome. I've lost a few pounds, cleared my head, gotten quite a bit more organized, and generally changed over to a more positive perspective. It's funny how the small changes we can make in our lives can make the biggest differences. I feel so in control of my own happiness... what an amazing feeling.

Today is mid-term election day in Argentina for various legislative representatives, an election that is being widely viewed as a measure of the popularity of President Cristina Fernandez Kirchner and her hubby/ former President/ current congressional candidate Nestor Kirchner. In Argentina, voting is mandatory. It's also on a Sunday. And on top of that, almost all businesses are closed, and specifically no one is permitted to sell alcohol between midnight and I think 8:00pm. So yeah, the city was pretty quiet last night for a Saturday night!!

I have mixed feelings about the compulsory voting thing. At first I was like, hey that's awesome!! It's always been something I am embarrassed about in the US, that we have all these freedoms and the right to vote "democratically," (I won't get into my various other opinions, but for the most part, it's democratic), and yet like half of the population doesn't do it. Ugh, this bothers me tremendously.

However, I've recently gotten to thinking, is mandatory voting any better? Because it suddenly occurred to me-- unless there are also mandatory information sessions, and unless it is mandatory to prove somehow that you understand more or less what is going on politically, well then basically, you are saying that everyone, including those people who are totally uninformed and know nothing about the candidates, are required to vote. And that's just silly.

There is also the issue of buying votes. I know this happens a lot with the presidential elections, though I imagine it trickles down to these other legsislative ones too, especially one like today which supposedly will reflect quite a bit on the President's popularity. I've heard everything from candidates buying votes for money, to buying votes for a choripan. It's so sad. In a population where there are so many poor, uniformed people, and where there is so much need, it's an upsetting reality that some corrupt politician can use the people's poverty to their advantage, walk into a villa (a slum), dole out some sandwiches, and win a vote. That, my friends, is not democracy.

I, however, make excellent sandwiches, and so while we are on the subject, I would like to encourage you all to vote for me. Yes, I'm a go-getter, I tell great jokes, I'm a really good dancer, and I make a mean lasagna. VOTE FOR ME. We'll talk about my stances on various issues later. For now, I just want you to know that I have some chorizo on the grill, and a choripan with your name on it. VOTE FOR ME!

In addition to contemplating the political process here and eating rabbit food (and tofu! I found mediocre but technical tofu!!!), I've also been working a TON. I finally have all those work hours I wanted for so long! It's great, and also exhausting. Most days I work around 6-10 hours a day, during a period of about 9-12 hours, with the remaining time in the middle being filled with traveling from class to class, and the occasional lunch break (though I often go without). I'm hustling, my friends. And though I learned little to nothing in the TEFL course I took back in February, one thing I did learn is that you gotta hustle to survive as an English teacher in BsAs... and hot damn, the lunatic was right.

I've finally broken out of my complete financial catastrophe, and am now making enough money to pay for all of my expenses. I even had a small amount left over this month, which is about the most exciting thing ever... although I'm sure not having a beer budget was a factor!!! hahaha

In this spazz, unfocused blog I would also like to mention the imminent visits of two more VIP's in my life! My DAD is coming in early August for a visit for a couple weeks! He claims it's a "maybe," but what he doesn't realize is that I won't accept a "no," answer, and so he will be coming! I'm soooo looking forward to it, Dad! I will take some tango classes in anticipation, since my dad is Tango Master. Also, my awesome beautiful sister Christie is coming! Yep, she, unlike Pa, has already purchased her tickets and will be here on October 9th! yayyy!!! I absolutely cannot wait to see her for a week! So yeah, thanks to you both for giving me something concrete to look forward to. I'm getting a lot of "yeah, sure I'll visit you..." from various people (ahem! Allison! Dave! Daniel!), so having some real action is pretty exciting. :-)

The question remains: What am I more excited about? Their actual visits, or the fact that they will bring me gifts of peanut butter, cock sauce, and Bragg's from the 1st World??? The world may never know.

Lastly, I'd like to end with some really, really old photos/ videos that I've been meaning to post for a while. Sorry for the lateness, kids.

First, this is a video of the tango dancers at Café Tortoni, where I went with my Mom and Bill during their visit. Enjoy!



And I also went to my first football (soccer) game a while back and saw Argentina play against Colombia in a World Cup qualifying match-- and win! yay. I guess I'm not such bad luck after all... of the 3 Red Sox games I went to, we lost every single one. I was a bit worried for a minute that I was a huge jinx, but I feel better now. Anyway, this is a picture of the River Plate Stadium where the game happened. The Stadium holds about 65,000 people and is where, of course, the River team normally plays. Then there's a video of the crowd right after we scored our one and only goal. When people jump like that they call it the Pogo, which I think is awesome. However, I must say overall the game wasn't half as animated and crazy as I was expecting. Word on the street is that the local games are wayyyy more fun, so I'll have to check one out soon and get back to you.





Okay, hope everyone is doing great! Lots of love.

I feel good! (nee-ner-nee-ner-nee-ner-nuh)

I have officially been on the alcohol cleanse for 9 days, and the complete cleanse (including food and lifestyle) for 6 days, and I must say, I feel better than I have in ages. The food I was eating, the alcohol I was drinking, and the stressful, unbalanced lifestyle I was living clearly were not working for me, and it was time for a change. Right now I feel not only healthy, but also proud to have taken this on in a city that doesn't make it easy! Every day I face challenges to my diet, and peer pressure from those around me to eat/ drink/ do things that I have chosen to eliminate. But the fact that I have said "no" to all of those things now for over a week has been an empowering experience, and the fact that this Cleanse is more difficult than any I have done before has made it only that much more worthwhile.

I had a great long weekend with friends (today is Flag Day, or something, so I didn't have to work), and I watched them eat and imbibe as usual, and I happily sipped my water, ate my lentils, and enjoyed the show. I still went out 3 nights and had a great time! I also threw a little dinner party last night with some close friends (my roommates Julie and Andrea, friends Claire, Marisa, Charlotte, and Bata) and subjected them to my cleanse-friendly dinner of salad, hearty lentil stew, and brown rice. Everyone loved the food and had a blast, and we even played drinking games-- every time I had to "drink" I took a big slurp off my mate. That'll give you a buzz!

Anyway, I'm lucky I have supportive friends, and I'm proud to have taken this on. Really, my body and more importantly my soul are feeling good. I am acutely aware at this point how very necessary these changes were to my happiness and sanity.

I'll leave it at that-- 3 weeks to go!

Cleanse: Day 1

I'm back on the Cleanse!!! And I have a very strong suspicion that this may be one of my biggest challenges for a long time.

I won't bore you with the itty bitty specifics, although feel free to email me if you'd like them. The point is, the Cleanse (something I stole from my dear sister Christie) has several purposes, and I assure you it is not just a "diet." Goals include:

1. Physically feeling better-- losing a few pounds, cleaning out the toxins, getting my eating back on track.
2. Emotional cleansing-- I've been having a rough patch lately, and could use a nice new heavy dose of happiness, confidence, and clarity.
3. Life organization-- Clean my room. Fix my work schedule. Set some financial goals. Create a life that is satisfying and works for me.

This starts today, and will continue for a month. No alcohol! I hate admitting it, but that will probably be the most difficult part. I have already cleaned out my kitchen cabinets and replaced the bread, pasta, cheese, etc with beans, brown rice, and plenty of fruit and veggies. As a matter of fact, I will essentially be both vegan and straightedge for the next month, a near impossible feat in a country like Argentina! I've also already put a lot of energy into sorting out my work life, and have somehow pieced together a schedule that I think is far better than it has ever been before! So hopefully in the next month or so, I can start actually saving money and not just breaking even, or burning through my savings.

Anyway, thanks for your support!

How to pick up a foxy lady in Argentina

In Argentina, a piropo is a pick-up line, or a catcall. And believe me, if you are a woman in Buenos Aires, you hear them allll dayyyy looonnngggg.

I generally get the same old thing: "Hola, colo, sos re linda!" This is very Argentine. Colo is short for colorada, which is Argentine (not Spanish, Argentine!) for "redhead." Sos is the vos form of "your are," again, a form only used in Argentina. Linda means "beautiful." And re is Argentine for muy, or "very." So basically it's, "Hi, redhead, you're very beautiful." (BARF)

So there you have it. Now you all know how to hit on me in Argentine. Not Spanish! Argentine.

Oh, and one more thing: Ali recently received THE BEST PIROPO OF ALL TIME!!! Ahahaha I absolutely must share this on the internet, sorry Ali!

She was walking down the street and a guy said to her, "Con ese culo, te invito a cagar en mi depto!" which means, "With an ass like that, you can come shit at my house!"

Ahahahaha!!! Best pick up line of all time. All others will be measured against this one forevermore.

Much-needed family time

My mom and Bill were here visiting for 2 weeks! They left this past Wednesday, and I know I'm a bit late writing about it but I must say, it's taken me a while to ease back into my life after their visit. It was so hard to say good bye, and I'm just finally digesting the visit enough to write about it! Their visit was wonderful, fun, hilarious, and necessary to my sanity, and their departure was incredibly painful.

It's funny how you don't realize how homesick you are until a piece of home comes walking through the door. I've been here now for 4 months, and hadn't really felt homesick at all (I mean I missed people, but I wouldn't really classify it as homesickness per se), and having visitors just brought it all back into my head. I started thinking about my life at home with not only them but with my other family (my dad, my niece, my sister), my friends, my bicycles.... haha! Yes, it's true.

Anyhoo, though I'm sad it's over, we had such a great time together!!! I laughed so hard I cried on many occasions. My family is ridiculous, and I wouldn't have it any other way.

Basically, we ate our way through Buenos Aires for 2 weeks straight, with the occasional excursion or activity tossed in for good measure. I'd been making lists of restaurants I wanted to try for weeks, and took full advantage while they were here! After all, a place that feels expensive for someone earning in pesos is still incredibly cheap when looked at from the American dollar perspective. For example, a fancy steak dinner, including appetizers, side orders and wine generally comes out to around $20 USD per person, which is just crazy.

Here were some of our favorites:

1. La Brigada-- A well known and celebrated parrilla in my neighborhood of San Telmo boasting juicy steaks, outstanding service, and a comfortable ambiance complete with a live piano and accordion player. We fell in love with our waiter, Jorge, our juicy bife de chorizo, the provoleta, and the panqueque de dulce de leche for dessert, which Jorge literally drowned in hot molten chocolate.

2. Cantina Pierino-- We never would have found this place if it hadn't been for the expert recommendation of my friend Liz, who promised us "the best Italian food in the city." Daaaaaamn she was right!!! The place has a spectacular Italian-tastic ambiance, sprinkled with members of the original owner's family bustling about serving, cooking, and checking in with customers.... it's now on the 4th generation! Something clearly must be working. I will never forget the plate of homemade raviolis I ate, smothered in a creamy garlic, porcini mushroom, and chard sauce. To die for.



3. La Cholita-- The place is owned by the same people who run Cumaná right next door, and although Cumaná is the one that seems to get all the raves, we tried both, and we all unanimously preferred La Cholita for its eclectic menu, huge portions, veggie-friendliness (my mom and Ali split a spectacular roasted veggie plate, and couldn't even finish it), and fun atmosphere. I adored my chicken skewers, and might have even finished them if I hadn't loaded up on their free homemade bread loaves while we sipped wine and waited. Worth the wait-- and wait, you will.

4. El Desnivel-- From the outside, you would never know that inside are quite possibly the best steaks in town... in Bill's and my humble opinions, anyway. I mean, oh man, I was rocking a pretty serious steak baby after our meal, and it was worth it! My mom also enjoyed her first chicken milanesa, and all was devoured. We loved the service, the plastic tablecloths, and the bang for our buck. Not to mention, one of the best slabs of meat ever placed in front of me.



5. Origen Café-- It's less than a block from my house. How had I never been there before?! Serving up foods made with all organic, free-range ingredients, this little café also serves up one of the biggest and most satisfying cups of café con leche I have had in Argentina. I enjoyed a hearty bowl of vegetarian lentil and veggie soup, served with warm whole grain bread. I'll be back with my laptop soon to take advantage of the free wi-fi and chill atmosphere.

Warning: my fingers are getting tired, so my reviews are going to start getting shorter...

6. Café Tortoni-- We saw an incredible, traditional tango show here, and had some delicious cakes after the show. A historical site, and a must-see.



7. La Cabrera-- Probably one of the most well-known parrillas in the city, and deserving of its reputation. Delicious food, huge portions, diverse side orders, but a bit touristy.

8. El Federal-- One of the oldest places to eat in San Telmo, and right across the street from my house, I can literally look through the windows from my bedroom.... creepy. Anyway, great sandwiches, great burgers, terrible service. What's not to love?

9. El Nacional-- Another gem located right the street from me in San Telmo, we had one of our favorite lunches of the trip here. Mmmmm... I'm still thinking about my grilled chicken panini. This place also turns into a fun dance spot at night.

10. Bio-- A yummy 100% vegetarian restaurant located in trendy Palermo Hollywood. My food was over-salted, but overall the place was yummy, and it was nice to see things like seitan and tofu on a menu for a change. I'd go back.

And that, friends, marks the end of my restaurant blabbery!!! We went to about 15-20 different places overall for lunches and dinners, but I can't possibly write about them all!

We also did more than eat. Their first weekend here, we had an amazing 2 day and 1 night stay at an estancia called Don Silvano, about 30 minutes from a cute town called San Antonio de Areco, in the provincia of Buenos Aires (aka outside the city). There, we sampled the gaucho lifestyle by riding horses, watching traditional folk dancing, and chowing down on asado. We made some new friends (there were a surprising number of locals there, given the touristy nature of the whole thing), and and had a really relaxing time. My mom and I also bought ourselves pairs of alpargatas, which are the traditional shoes worn in Argentina. They are suuuuuper comfortable, and more importantly, dirt cheap!

They also really wanted to meet my friends, so we invited 10 of my favorite people over to their rental apartment in Recoleta, bought a huuuge amount of empanadas and far too much wine, and all sat around eating and drinking one afternoon. It was great! It gave them a chance to meet my [amazing] friends, and my friends a chance to see where all my insanity comes from. ;-) The best part was that everyone loved each other, got along great, and had a fun time, so I'd say it was a big success.

My mom had some bad luck here-- she got slipped a counterfeit $20 peso bill (sadly, this is quite common), almost got robbed on the subte when she caught a woman digging through her purse (also, sadly common), and learned the hard way several times that change, especially monedas, are hard to come by (now do you believe me?!).

I'll be honest though-- ugh this is going to come out wrong. But something about knowing that my mom and Bill had to experience some of the really crappy aspects of living here, like getting ripped off or having someone refuse to make you change (as the 'rents put it, 'you have to spend money to get money' because people won't give you change unless you buy enough stuff) made me feel like they better understand my experience here and what I deal with each day, and thus made me feel a bit better. At least now when I complain about monedas or the subte or the sketchy taxis, I have someone back home to commiserate with. :-/

Anyway, back to activities. During the week, we saw the Cementerio de Recoleta, Puerto Madero, San Telmo, Palermo, downtown and the famous Calle Florida, La Boca, and lots of sights, like the Casa Rosada and the mechanical flower. I continued to work my full work schedule, so while I was off working, my mom and Bill had time to explore the parks of Palermo, wander the streets of the city, and even go to Colonia, Uruguay for the day (which they looooved!).

Here they are strolling through Puerto Madero at sunset:


And of course my mom and I had to have our picture taken in front of this HILARIOUS statue:


Their second weekend here, we headed to Tigre, just outside the city. Tigre is known for its gorgeous river and ecological reserves and islands to explore, and is a very outdoorsy place to be... which was interesting, because the day we were there it was pouring rain!!! Bad luck. Though I initially advised against going in the rain, they still wanted to go, because getting there involved a scenic train ride that they didn't want to miss, so we headed out. It turned out to be well worth it! The train ride on the Tren de la Costa was lovely, comfortable, and scenic, and also very cheap. However, when we finally got to Tigre, there was literally a downpour, and we didn't know what to do with ourselves in a river town in weather like that. The market was closed, and there was no one around. A tour guide named Fernando ended up taking us under his wing. I don't know how it happened, but somehow he and I got to talking, and he offered to drive us into town to a restaurant, so we could at least eat lunch and look at the water. Next thing we know, we are all piling into his tiny, cluttered little car, and he mumbles an apology to us which Bill swears was "Sorry for the mess. I have a dog, and cat, and a kid with 3 assholes."

Hahaha!!! So of course we spent the entire afternoon making jokes about "the 3 assholes."

Anyway, Fernando ended up giving us a driving tour of the area, recommending a delicious restaurant (unfortunately I forget the name) and dropping us off at the door, and then after all that, refusing to accept a tip for his services. We just got lucky, and spent the rest of the afternoon stuffing our faces, drinking wine, and being thankful for him. Honestly, though we didn't see much of Tigre, it ended up being one of our most fun days, because we just sat and laughed and laughed and laughed all afternoon and enjoyed each other's company!

The following day I took the 'rents to the San Telmo market, which I've blogged about in the past. There, they enjoyed their first choripan (chorizo on bread, served with the always-amazing chimichurri sauce), which they became instantly (and rightfully) obsessed with. What's not to love?! My mom also got herself a mate, so she may be sitting at home in Massachusetts sipping on some mate right now! :-)

The three of us just had good, clean fun. We laughed, we cried. We discussed my future, and they of course became confused when I tried to explain why I needed to stay here for at least a full year, even though I'm not necessarily "happy." (It's complicated, and involves a promise I made to myself, one I don't expect you to understand.) It was very emotional, and also very special. They missed me a lot, and I realized how much I missed them, and everyone back home. Having a little taste of them being here made it all the more difficult to see them go. The last day was difficult, and of course my mom and I sobbed our eyes out as their taxi pulled away and took them to the airport. But really, I wouldn't change a thing. I am just lucky I had some visitors and some family time, that I had an excuse to do so much fun stuff, and that I got showered with so much love for 2 weeks.